Kohl by Hind Al Oud

*****
Year: unknown

Notes: mandarin, saffron, geranium, rose, jasmine, amber, oud, musk

Comment: Kohl is only available in the United Arab Emirates and Qatar

Established in 2003, by Mohamed Hilal, Hind Al Oud is a Dubai-based niche house that attempts to develop a "harmonious balance" between Arabian and Western olfactory influences.

Opening with an eyebrow raising juxtaposition of accords, Kohl is difficult to pin down yet not completely alien to one's nose. Unleashing a peppery aromatic twist, with a virile mandarin onslaught, one can't help but detect certain parallels with Parfums de Nicolaï's Maharanih – including an extremely prominent orange zest that's at odds with the geranium and its 'complementary' accord (saffron for Kohl and lavender for Maharanih).

The geranium shifts to the fore, after the challenging top notes have mellowed, while the saffron, florals, amber and oud generate a dark yet mildly astringent plum-like aroma. With a woody-musk foundation, it still remains bewildering but compelling at the same time. Unfortunately, one is continuously bemused more than seduced by its somewhat awkward evolution.

With decent lasting power, unlike Maharanih, Kohl isn't as brash but softer in its general demeanour. However, just like Parfums de Nicolaï's creation, one is still on the fence as to its wearability. While it isn't a completely original olfactory statement, one still gets the impression that it would serve better as a high-end air freshener instead of a personal fragrance.


* A special thanks goes out to Joseph for making this review possible.


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