Iris Nazarena by Aedes de Venustas

*****
Year: 2013

Notes: ambrette seed, juniper berry, star anise, clove, Rose de Mai, iris, frankincense, leather, oud, patchouli, vetiver, woods, musk
"The rare Iris Bismarckiana is also known as Iris Nazarena because it grows mainly in the mountains east of Nazareth."

Created by Ralf Schwieger, Iris Nazarena opens with a wonderfully bone-dry and vegetal iris note, accentuated by some ambrette seed and a hint of juniper. Any sweetness discernible, at this stage, is more of a carrot-like sweetness, with spicy nuances from the star anise.

For a few moments, the composition is further sweetened by some rose and frankincense, before a dark suede accord directs things into a woodier, earthier direction. Resting on a woody-musk base, the impending drydown emits dusty, salty and leathery facets, with faint traces of the iris-infused opening still persisting.

Never too heavy or cloying, it's a lovely union of iris-leather that initially offered so much promise. Unfortunately, sillage is underwhelming and a liberal application is required to make it last beyond the four hour mark.


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